"Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be. The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be here now’, and the tube ride is the most acute form of that. Which is: your future is right ahead of you, the past is exploding behind you, your wake is disappearing, your footprints are washed from the sand. It’s a non-productive, non-depletive act that’s done purely for the value of the dance itself. And that is the destiny of man."
"The next thing after sea surfing will be solar wave surfing, solar sailing. Now this may sound like acid hallucination, but the Jet Propulsion Laboratory is one of the most respected scientific institutions we have in the country, with enormous government grants and aerospace investments. It has as one of its largest projects now, working out the hardware aspects of solar sailing. The action out there … since there’s no gravity or resistance, we’re going to just float along on solar winds."
"It's the metaphor of life to me: the highly conscious life. Think of the tube as being the past - and I'm an evolutionary agent - and what I try to do is to be at that point where you're going into the future, but you have to keep in touch with the past. That's where you get the power. And sure, where you're most helpless, but you also have the most precise control at that moment.
And using the past, the past is pushing you forward, isn't it? The wave is crashing behind you, right? And you can't be slow about it, or you..."
"I define myself as an evolutionary surfer because surfers have taught me the way you relate to the basic energies and develop their individual sense of freedom, self-definition, style, beauty, and control."
"I've been doing a lot of lecturing, and I've picked out as my symbol, surfing. I want to have film of a surfer right at that point moving along constantly right at the edge of the tube."
"It's perfectly logical to me that surfing is the spiritual aesthetic style
of the liberated self."
(DR. LEARY)
Iglesia del Surf del Cristo Risueño de la Costa LTD. MMXXIII ©
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